Tuesday, December 22, 2009

What is the BEST auto OIL in the market today?

synthetic or not. and WHY do you think is the best. ';Do you have any real evidence of this? '; And how often do yo change your OIL. thanksWhat is the BEST auto OIL in the market today?
you asked essentially an open ended question.


and it's all a matter of opinion as well.


My personal favorite is Redline. I use the 10w30.


I change my oil every 17,000 miles. (redline is rated to go 21,000 before it needs to be changed) But I change my oil filter every 5000 miles.


I know the REdline will go the distance, but an oil filter can only hold so much crud. so I change the filter and put another quart of redline in.


It saves me a lot of money and I've had no problems for 210,000 miles on my Ford pickup.





as for evidence.. the only thing I can offer is in autoshop class back in 1992, we decided to test Redline motor oil for ourselves because a lot of guys in the class were bragging about it.


So one guy's dad donated his 1979 el camino with a 302 5.0L v8, it was worn out and bascially needed a rebuild. So the project was that we rebuilt the engine, and put castrol 10w30 conventional oil in for break in. The guy drove it regularly and at 2500 miles we changed it over to redline 10w30 and an AC Delco oil filter.


We tore the engine down and mic'd out the bearings and cam bores and cylinder bores as well as the pistons. we documented it, put the engine back together.


and we decided as a class that we would keep in touch and come back for teardowns and inspections. We also decided to have this el camino on the road for 2 years running JUST redline oil and AC Delco filters. We also decided that the oil will not be changed. We simply would change the oil filter every 4000 miles.


Ok, the guy who's dad donated the car did the filter changing and oil top offs. everything he did was documented.


At 2 years most of us got back together at the shop and we drained the oil and took samples to send it to a lab, and cut open the last oil filter. The oil was dark, but not sludgy, that's normal. it didn't have that gasoline smell so it wasn't worn out.


the oil filter looked regular, nothing special about it, no metal filings that we could see.


we tore the engine down, got our specs out and re-mic'd the bearings and cam, cylinder bores and pistons. the difference was essentially nothing. the digital micrometers have a +- of like .004';. So the change was literally nothing.


there was no sludge in the oil pan , the pickup screen was clean, the inside of the engine that we looked at was clean. the cylinders themselves looked almost new.


The car had racked up about 23,000 miles on the redline oil.


So to me.. the redline did it's job and then some.


The main advantage to Redline oils are.. they do NOT have the SAE oil ratings on their bottles. Redline oils far exceed the SAE ratings as required by manufacturers. They produce a high quality product.





I know royal purple has been getting a lot of headlines and hoopla. But there was no royal purple back then, and I'm sticking with what I know and I've seen work.


I have the old mechanic myth mentality.. stick with 1 oil brand and never change. As for filters.. I don't follow that myth. I only use Wix or purolator.What is the BEST auto OIL in the market today?
There are only 2 oils in my vocabulary. Mobil One, and ELF. Both are race tested and make customized products for each car-makers specifications. They are both synthetic oils. My advice to everyone is, don't even bother with bulk or regular dino oils, They simply cause sludge and varnish, it only depends when. Many modern engines are very vulnerable to sludge formation, esp Chrysler. These listed oils reduce or eliminate varnish altogether, keep things clean, and perpetually wash things as you drive. No oil vapor condensation. No ash deposits! Virtually, No engine wear. I got into the habit of only changing it when it looks dark or thick. They protect expensive engine sensors and produce more power and economy. Other oils worth considering are Pennzoil (but only when the container lists EXACTLY which cars it was designed for use in), SOME Castrol products, Amzoil, and many German oils, like Pentosin, or Lubro-Moly. Royal Purple has absolutely NO ratings listed on it's products. I have de-sludged and power tuned many engines from all manufacturers. I have seen the damage that ';wax reduction'; oils do. NOT FOR ME!!!! I want an oil that keeps the inside of the engine unwaxed, unvarnished, and clean as showroom. Forget ';v'; and ';QS'; totally. Virtually no engine wear from highly tauted synthetic oils. Mobil One is REQUIRED in many cars. It voids the warranty if NOT used.SEE???
Mobil 1 Synthetic, I've been using synthetics for years and every car I've sued it in (and kept for a long time) has lasted for over 250,000 miles without having any engine problems.





Every synthetic oil producer has tests showing that their synthetic oil is the best against other synthetic oils (of course they would rate their oil as the best). In better than 90% of the tests, Mobil 1 comes in second against rivals oil tests. Kind of tells you, that for the price, Mobil 1 synthetic oil is top of the line.





I used to have to rebuild the ';top end'; of my racing motor on a regular schedule (about every couple months of racing), when I started running it on a synthetic oil, I could go for over a year and the tear down still showed that the parts were still within blueprint value.
I have used Castrol GTX oil for as long as I can remember and I have never had an oil related engine concern, let alone an engine failure.


I generally keep my vehicles for well over 100,000 miles and I change the oil, for the most part, every 5000 or so miles.
depends on who you ask, but the modern tight tolerance engines can last longest on synthetic if changed every 3,000 - 5,000 miles because of the more uniform and smaller molecule size of this oil. Check out consumer reports, popular mechanics etc for evidence.

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